Hiking back into winter during a May outing
Eastern Idaho's Waterfall Canyon is still under a blanket of snow
I started to think the month of May was the new June with all the warm dry weather we’ve been having across eastern Idaho. Then I hiked up to Waterfall Canyon in the Snake River Range east of Swan Valley, Idaho earlier this week and found myself in knee-deep and deeper snow.
So while it may be June-like weather down along the Snake River Plain, at more than 7,500 feet in Waterfall Canyon, May still has a hold on the conditions in this mountain canyon.
I had a dangerous moment of over stimulation while watching YouTube videos of people out hiking and backpacking in awesome places. It inspired me to hit the trail.
Normally I recommend hiking to Waterfall Canyon as an overnighter because of the distance and the nice backcountry campsites. I originally planned to do just that until life got in the way. I decided to do it as a day-hike. I fibbed to myself saying it was only about 18 miles or so (in reality it’s more like 22+ miles).
I drove to the Palisades Creek Trailhead east of Irwin, Idaho and parked in an empty lot. I started hiking at about 8 a.m. The temperature was about 38 degrees and I could see my breath. I wore shorts with the promise of 60 degrees later in the day.
My first booboo was after about a quarter-mile down the trail. I couldn’t remember if I’d locked the car door. Back I went to check. I had. But that added an extra half mile. I talked myself out of worrying about it and put my legs into cruise control and motored along the gorgeous canyon.
One nice thing about hiking this time of year is that the mosquitoes haven’t yet got their game together. There were, however, those slightly annoying spider web strings across the trail. I used to wonder how spiders — who don’t have wings — could get their lines from one side of the trail to the other right at my head height. Then I saw a spider floating on the breeze like an astronaut on a tether doing a space walk, making its way across the open trail. Spiders have super powers.
I had hoped to see critters along the way, but I guessed they had all been chased away by the weekend traffic (I was hiking on a Monday).
I chugged along past the Lower Palisades Lake, past what I call the beaver-y area (there are dams and lodges), then up to the Upper Palisades Lake (a bit over 7 miles). The Upper Lake is a treat for the eyes with its bright green water. I will say I’d never seen it this low, but I’m thinking it will rise some when the upper snows melt.
It’s more than a mile to the upper end of the Upper Lake. At this end there are a few nice campsites, horseback sites and two enclosed latrines.
Past the lake the trail splits. The right trail goes to Waterfall Canyon after another 2.5-plus miles. The main waterfall is farther into the canyon.
As I neared the canyon, I encountered slow sections blocked by downfall and snow. The higher I hiked, the more snow. By the time I entered Waterfall Canyon proper, I hit stretches of ankle- to knee-deep snow. I often punched through, leaving postholes. I was wishing for skis or snowshoes.
The hiking slowed to half speed because of the conditions. But I decided since it was only about 1 p.m. and I’d come this far, I wasn’t turning back.
I found old snowmobile tracks from earlier in the winter and hiked along those. The slightly packed snow allowed for less post holing.
The waterfalls are in the upper part of the canyon. Because the snow had yet to get serious about melting, the waterfall on the southwest side of the canyon was hardly flowing. The northeast side waterfall was pouring. I have been there in June when I counted four different falls gushing in the canyon. After June, most usually dry up.
As I was hiking out of the canyon, I felt like I was in a reflector oven. The bright sun’s rays surrounded me as I passed through open meadows covered in snow.
As I dropped out of the canyon and left the snow behind, I noticed that my light-weight trail running shoes and socks were soaked. I had to stop and tape up one toe that started to blister because of soft, wet skin.
The nice thing about going back down both canyons is that the trail trends mostly downhill. My speed picked up slightly.
I hadn’t seen any other humans all day until about a half mile below the Lower Lake — a couple who appeared to be college aged. A mile or so later, I passed another young couple — the only other folks all day.
The lower canyon did feel like June conditions. But I would recommend waiting for at least a couple more weeks before heading into Waterfall Canyon.
If you’re going by horseback, bring along a chainsaw. The down trees are a mess on the trail.
